There’s something oddly soothing about waking up on a train. The rhythm of the rails, the muffled chatter from the corridor, the smell of instant coffee being prepared in the dining car. We rolled into Hanoi just after sunrise, hazy golden light spreading across the city as it slowly came to life. Bleary-eyed but content, we disembarked and made our way through the soft chaos of morning Hanoi where we stopped for a quick Banh Mi. There was no time to linger this time, we had another journey ahead: a drive eastward towards one of Vietnam’s most iconic natural wonders; Ha Long Bay.

The drive from Hanoi to Ha Long takes around three and a half hours, depending on traffic. It’s a chance to catch your breath, doze a little, and watch as the urban sprawl gives way to countryside once more, green fields, water buffalo, and roadside stalls selling everything from dragon fruit to woven baskets. And then, after a quiet stretch of highway, you begin to see it: limestone karsts rising from the water, jagged and dreamlike, like the ruins of a drowned world. H? Long Bay has a sort of cinematic presence; you've seen the photos, maybe even the postcards, but nothing really prepares you for the real thing.

We boarded our boat around midday, just in time for a welcome drink and a warm breeze off the water. The boat was charming, wooden decks, soft chairs for lounging, and wide windows for drinking in the views. As we set sail, the noise of the mainland fell away, replaced by lapping water and the occasional cry of seabirds overhead. The next few hours were blissfully unhurried. We glided between towering islands, each one unique, some sharp and vertical, others draped in forest and shadow. We stopped to visit a limestone cave, its chambers filled with stalactites and echoes.

Dinner was served on board as dusk fell, a spread of fresh seafood, vegetables, and rice dishes. The lights of a few other boats dotted the horizon, but it felt mostly like we had the bay to ourselves. Afterward, I sat on the upper deck with a cup of tea, watching the karsts disappear into the night and thinking about how far we’d come, from tangled city streets to the cool hush of mountain trails, and now here, drifting among stone islands under the stars.

Travel Tip: When heading to H? Long Bay, pack a small overnight bag separately if you're returning to Hanoi after the cruise, it saves hauling large luggage on and off the boat. Choose a reputable cruise provider that focuses on smaller groups and responsible tourism (some vessels contribute to conservation or community projects). Don’t miss the chance to kayak, it offers a more intimate perspective of the bay’s hidden coves. And bring insect repellent and a light jacket; the sea breeze can be surprisingly cool in the evening.

The morning in H? Long Bay dawned a little cooler than expected, with mist still hanging low over the water, giving the entire bay a mystical, dreamlike quality. I woke early to catch the sunrise from the upper deck, where the sun crept over the water, turning the limestone karsts into silhouette after silhouette, each one seemingly more dramatic than the last. It was one of those moments where you just sit and breathe it in, thankful to be present in such a place.

After breakfast aboard the boat, we took to cycling, not through the typical tourist spots, but into the heart of the island life. Our destination was Viet Hai Village, located on Cat Ba Island, a more secluded part of H? Long Bay, known for its unspoiled natural beauty and traditional way of life. The ride was beautiful and relaxing, we pedalled through dense jungle and along winding mountain paths. The air was fresh, the scent of pine and earth mingling with the salty sea breeze, and as we gained elevation, the views became increasingly spectacular. Every turn revealed new vistas—sweeping green hills, scattered villages, and distant islands dotting the horizon.

We reached Viet Hai Village after about an hour’s ride, and I couldn’t help but feel like we’d stepped into a different era. The village is remote, nestled in the valley of Cat Ba National Park, surrounded by lush greenery and overlooking the turquoise waters of the bay. The villagers, primarily fishermen and farmers, still live in ways that have been passed down for generations, with wooden houses, vegetable gardens, and a peaceful rhythm to life that feels far removed from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi or even H? Long Bay itself.

Our guide showed us around the village, stopping to chat with a few locals, who smiled and waved as we passed. We visited a small family-run farm, where we saw how they grew everything from rice to bananas. Afterward, we enjoyed a traditional Vietnamese lunch in the village, a simple, hearty meal of fresh fish, pickled vegetables, and sticky rice, eaten outside in the cool shade. The food tasted different here, richer somehow, as though it carried the essence of the land itself.

The ride back to the boat was a little easier, though just as scenic. As we glided along the water, the island’s forested hills gave way to beaches, and the sparkling water stretched out endlessly before us. By the time we returned to the boat, I felt like I’d had an entire experience in just a few short hours—cycling through misty landscapes, interacting with locals, and taking in the serenity of a village that time seems to have forgotten.

Travel Tip: Cycling through Cat Ba and Viet Hai Village is a great way to see a side of H? Long Bay that most visitors miss. It’s an active day, so make sure you're prepared with sunscreen, comfortable clothes, and plenty of water. The terrain can be hilly, so be ready for some physical exertion, but it’s worth every pedal stroke. Always check with your cruise operator to see if they offer these cycling excursions, as they’re a fantastic way to experience the region’s natural beauty and traditional culture.

The morning in H? Long Bay was nothing short of magical. The mist had cleared, and the bay was bathed in soft, golden light as a boat gently rocked in the water beside ours. But today wasn’t just about admiring the view, it was about starting the day with something truly grounding and reflective.

I was up early for a Tai Chi session on the sundeck. I was all set to participate, surrounded by the towering karsts and the calm waters. Stepping out onto the deck though, the sun shining to the sound of the water lapping against the side of the boat, I decided I just wanted to sit and soak it all in. Sitting there, the Tai Chi class on one side of me and the rising sun on the other side, it was the perfect way to embrace the stillness of the bay, and I must admit, it felt like a small slice of peace before the day’s journey began.

After the session, I had a quiet breakfast on the deck, sipping tea and watching the islands fade in and out of the mist. There’s something about the morning light in Ha Long Bay that makes everything seem a little more magical, almost like the landscape is still waking up, too. By mid-morning, we bid farewell to the bay, setting course back toward the mainland. The boat docked, and we made our way to Hanoi to catch the overnight train to Dong Hoi. The train station was bustling, with vendors selling fresh fruit and locals rushing to catch their trains. The journey ahead would take us south, further into the heart of Vietnam.

The train was comfortable enough, with soft beds and a cosy cabin to settle in. As we pulled away from Hanoi City, I watched the countryside roll by, a blur of rice paddies, small towns, and winding rivers. There’s something wonderfully nostalgic about travelling by train in Vietnam, rocking gently through the landscape, watching life unfold outside the window. After a few hours of playing cards with my companions, I settled in for the night, letting the soft hum of the train lull me to sleep. Tomorrow, we’ll wake up in Dong Hoi, ready to continue our exploration of Vietnam’s vibrant, diverse landscapes.

Travel Tip: If you're taking the overnight train in Vietnam, be sure to bring a light jacket or shawl as temperatures can drop in the evenings, especially in air-conditioned cabins. Train stations can be a bit chaotic, so make sure to keep your tickets and passport handy for smooth boarding. Also, take some ear plugs as it can be loud in the cabin, it makes the journey much more enjoyable.

We arrived in Dong Hoi early in the morning, greeted by the rain and the smell of fresh earth. After an average night on the train, I was excited to dive into the natural wonders of this region, and there was no better place to start than the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, home to some of the most spectacular cave systems in the world. Our first stop was the Paradise Cave, which, if you haven’t seen it before, truly lives up to its name. The entrance itself is tucked away at the foot of a limestone mountain, with dense forest surrounding it. As we descended the long staircase into the cave, the air grew cooler, and a sense of awe quickly took over.

The cave is vast, 31 kilometres long in total—but visitors are only allowed to walk through the first kilometre, which is more than enough to leave you speechless. The sheer size of the chambers is hard to grasp; it’s a world in itself. Stalactites hang like frozen waterfalls, and stalagmites rise from the floor like ancient stone sculptures. The lighting inside is carefully placed to enhance the cave’s natural beauty, casting eerie shadows and illuminating the formations in ways that make them look almost otherworldly.

We wandered through the cave for about an hour, stopping regularly to take in the incredible features, some so large that they seemed to disappear into the darkness above us. The silence inside is profound, broken only by the sound of our footsteps echoing off the stone. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel small in the grand scheme of things, a reminder of the ancient forces of nature that shaped this land over millions of years.

After our Paradise cave adventure, we made our way to Phong Nha Cave, another stunning location within the park. This one can be explored by boat, and the ride along the son River is as peaceful as the cave is dramatic. The towering limestone cliffs on either side of the river are covered in lush green vegetation, and the water itself is clear, reflecting the landscape like a mirror. As we glided through the river, it felt like we were moving through a hidden world.

Phong Nha Cave is a bit more accessible, with a relatively easy path leading inside, and though it’s not as massive as Paradise Cave, it still holds its own beauty. We didn’t take the path inside, rather we drifted into this world of darkness in our small boat. Inside, we were surrounded by intricate limestone formations, many of which have taken fantastical shapes. Some of them resemble animal figures, and the entire cave is imbued with a sense of mystery, as though it holds secrets waiting to be discovered.

Travel Tip: Visiting the caves in Phong Nha-Ke Bang requires a bit of physical stamina, especially when exploring Paradise Cave’s long corridors and the steep staircase leading in. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes (preferably ones with good grip) and bring a light jacket for the cool cave air. If you’re taking the boat ride to Phong Nha Cave, bring a waterproof bag for your camera or valuables. It’s also a good idea to bring water and a snack if you plan on being out for a while.

The train ride from Dong Hoi to Hue was a peaceful one, stretching across the countryside with the occasional glimpse of rice paddies, riverbanks, and small villages tucked between the mountains. The ride was comfortable, but what I really loved was the opportunity to watch the landscape shift as we headed south, there’s something captivating about watching the hustle of northern Vietnam slowly give way to the quieter, more serene scenery of the central region.

We arrived in Hue around lunchtime, and I couldn’t wait to dive into the city’s rich history. Hue was once the seat of Vietnam’s Nguyen emperors, and it feels like stepping back in time. Despite its chaotic modern-day surroundings, the city still carries a regal, almost mystical air, especially when you get up close to the ancient monuments and crumbling walls of the Imperial City.

After settling into our hotel, we set out for the Imperial City in the afternoon, the heart of Hue’s historical centre. This vast walled citadel, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a relic of Vietnam’s imperial past. As I walked through the gates, I was struck by the beauty and scale of the place. It’s not just a single palace or temple but a sprawling complex of courtyards, gates, and grand halls. It’s easy to get lost in the labyrinthine paths, but that’s part of the charm, each corner you turn reveals something new and magnificent.

The Forbidden Purple City within the Imperial City was the highlight of the day. This area, once reserved only for the emperor and his immediate family, was once a symbol of imperial power and mystery. Now, though, much of it is in ruins, the delicate carvings faded, and the once-vibrant structures weathered by time. But even in its state of decay, there’s an undeniable sense of grandeur. The palace buildings, with their tiered roofs and intricate designs, still evoke the strength and elegance of a bygone era.

I wandered through the Hall of Mandarins, a stunning space where the emperor would meet with his officials. The architecture was a fascinating blend of Vietnamese, Chinese, and French influences, a testament to the cultural crossroads Hue has always represented. The colours were rich, with red and gold everywhere, and the walls still held traces of the imperial stories they once told.

Travel Tip: When visiting Hue’s Imperial City, wear comfortable shoes as there’s quite a bit of walking on uneven surfaces. The Forbidden Purple City has a lot of stairs, and some areas are more exposed to the sun, so don’t forget sunscreen and a hat. If you’re interested in learning more about the history, consider hiring a local guide, many of them are experts on Hue’s imperial history and can bring the sites to life with fascinating stories. And if you’re short on time, I recommend focusing on the Imperial City and Forbidden Purple City, as they’re the main highlights and the most historically significant parts of Hue.