After a fortuitous encounter at ITB Berlin this year, I found myself in the privileged position of being invited by Al-Rafidain, an Iraqi tour company, to partake on a journey alongside a select few, traversing the intriguing terrain of Iraq. Commencing in Basra and concluding in Erbil, Kurdistan, this odyssey was a stark departure from my preconceived notions, largely shaped by decades of news reports. My curiosity was piqued by the prospect of immersing myself in the cradle of ancient civilisations, including the Babylonians, Assyrians, Sumerians, and Akkadians.

My journey commenced with an Emirates flight from Sydney to Dubai, connecting to Flydubai for the onward journey to Basra. Considering my apprehensions, I expected stringent security checks. To my pleasant surprise, I was met by affable officials who extended a warm welcome to a Western visitor. Upon my arrival at the hotel, my travel companions, who had already convened, awaited me. With no time to rest, we set forth immediately on our adventure. Our inaugural destinations were the Basra Museum, a converted palace from Saddam Hussein's era, now serving as a museum, followed by a tour of old Basra. The essence of Iraqi hospitality became evident from the outset, with copious platters laden with rice, roast lamb, and chicken greeting us at every meal, transforming dining into a lavish affair. The persistent inability to finish every morsel became a recurring occurrence among our group, evoking a sense of guilt.

Our charted course from Basra to Erbil was to take us northward, encompassing Nasiriyah, Najaf, Karbala, Baghdad, Mosul, and finally, crossing into Kurdistan before our departure from Erbil. Our trusty, air-conditioned coach provided respite from the relentless 45-degree Celsius heat that enveloped us each day. It was on this vehicle that we forged deeper connections and discovered the shared passion that had led each of us to this unique destination. Martin from Canada, Jochen and Andrea from Germany, Marcin from Poland, and Federico, Fabrizio, and Carla from Italy were my companions, all united by our offerings of tours to less-trodden destinations.

As our journey unfolded, my preconceived notions about Iraq and its people were shattered. Instead of hostility, we were met with curiosity and warmth. Locals eagerly approached us for selfies and offered to capture our moments in their country. The pervasive atmosphere of welcome surrounded us wherever we ventured.

Many of the sites we visited had existed only in my imagination. We gazed upon the confluence of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers and Adam's tree, believed to mark the location of the Biblical Garden of Eden. We sailed through the marshes, a region forever transformed in recent years as its indigenous people, with a unique culture dating back thousands of years, were displaced by Iraq's former dictator.

On the third day, our travels took us to Ur, where we encountered the magnificent Ziggurat of Ur, dating back to 3800 BCE. This was ancient Mesopotamia, the birthplace of civilisation, the cradle of irrigation, and the home of the earliest known code of law, the Code of Ur-Nammu, inscribed around 2100 BCE. Our knowledgeable guide regaled us with intriguing stories, such as the discovery of the world's oldest surviving wheel in Ur. Amid the barren landscape, the historical richness was almost lost to time. We explored the house of Abraham, though it has been altered and reconstructed over the years, it retained an atmospheric quality. The oppressive heat reflecting off the stones eventually urged us back to our coach to reach our next destination.

Our journey introduced us to numerous other captivating sights, one of the highlights being the reconstructed Ishtar Gate in Baghdad. Commissioned by King Nebuchadnezzar II, it adorned the north side of the city and marked the entrance to the grand walled processional way leading into the city of Babylon. I envisioned the throngs of people who once traversed beneath the imposing blue-glazed bricks and the relief sculptures of fierce lions. Although I had previously seen the smaller replica at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, witnessing the original location and its remnants imparted a profound sense of time and place. The fate of this gate, like many other expatriated heritage artifacts, remains embroiled in the ongoing global debate, as the original owners yearn for their return.

Our itinerary featured several mosque visits along the way. As someone who had been raised amid cold, granite churches, I was taken aback by the grandeur, vitality, and warmth within the mosques. People congregated in relaxed, communal settings, sitting on the floor, engaging in conversations as they walked about. High ceilings adorned with sparkling chandeliers and an array of mosaics dazzled the eye. These visits underscored the importance of challenging preconceived notions about other cultures, which can often be reshaped through travel and personal experience. The unwavering warmth and friendliness of the Iraqi people were indelibly etched into my memory.

In the evenings, sumptuous grilled feasts accompanied by heaping platters of rice and vegetables awaited us. We relished leisurely strolls through local markets, pausing for tea and meaningful interactions with residents. Families walked together, while myriad stallholders showcased a tempting array of wares. The prevailing warmth and friendliness of the Iraqi people resonated profoundly.

Tourism in Iraq had effectively ground to a halt after the Gulf War in 1991, profoundly affecting the local populace. For a region steeped in the legacies of countless civilisations, I hope for a renaissance, one that flourishes anew. Beyond the grandeur of the past, what truly endures in my memories is the kindness I encountered and the fervent hope that I may soon embark on another journey to this extraordinary land.