Saying goodbye to Iraq, we venture into the Kurdish region, the cities of Sulaymaniyah and Erbil emerge as vibrant hubs that not only showcase the natural beauty of this region, but also encapsulate the distinct culture of northern Iraq.

This leg of the journey beckons us to delve into the rich tapestry of the Kurdish heritage, offering a unique blend of historical treasures and breathtaking landscapes. Sulaymaniyah, nestled in the heart of the Kurdistan region, invites exploration of its cultural gems, with the Kurdish Textile Museum standing out as a fascinating repository. This institution not only preserves the artistry of Kurdish textiles but also narrates the stories woven into each fabric. We are immersed in the intricate patterns, vibrant colours, and the craftsmanship that reflect the deep-rooted traditions of the Kurdish people.

A lunch stops at one of the most beautiful of sights in Kurdistan - Dukan Lake. Surrounded by hills whose colours highlight the amazing blue of the lake, I wish we could stay longer. The area begs out for boat trips and picnics by the water, a more leisurely visit than is possible today. Before the Dukan Dam was built in the 1950’s, much archaeological investigation took place indicating people lived in the area from the 6th century BCE until recent times.

Our journey continues to Erbil, where the city's ancient citadel stands as a crowning jewel atop the landscape. This UNESCO World Heritage site is a living testament to Erbil's historical significance, dating back over 6,000 years. As one ascends the citadel, they are treated to panoramic views that stretch across the city and its surroundings, offering a visual journey through time.

Wandering through Erbil's ancient streets within the citadel, we encounter a harmonious blend of the old and the new. From traditional markets to modern cafes, the citadel encapsulates the evolving spirit of Erbil while preserving the authenticity of its historical core. Engaging with locals here adds another layer to the experience, providing insights into the daily life and cultural vibrancy that define this resilient city.

Both Sulaymaniyah and Erbil serve as gateways to the Kurdish region's natural beauty. Surrounded by majestic mountains and fertile plains, this region of Iraq offers landscapes that range from picturesque valleys to rugged terrains. Exploring the outskirts of these cities allows us to witness the breathtaking scenery that has shaped the identity of the Kurdish people for centuries.

The journey through Sulaymaniyah and Erbil unfolds as a captivating exploration of the Kurdish region's cultural heritage and natural wonders. From the intricate textiles of Sulaymaniyah to the ancient citadel of Erbil, each destination paints a vivid picture of a vibrant and resilient community that embraces its past while forging ahead into a promising future.

Iraq, a nation characterised by its stark contrasts and unwavering resilience, unfolds as an extraordinary tapestry that beckons the intrepid traveller to embark on an unforgettable journey through the annals of time. Spanning from the southern port city of Basra to the northern reaches of Erbil, this travel odyssey promised and delivered a profound immersion into Iraq's rich tapestry of historical, cultural, and natural wonders. Throughout this expedition, we as a group of westerners are invited to not merely witness but wholeheartedly embrace the warmth of its people, savour the diverse flavours of its cuisine, and allow the echoes of ancient civilisations to resonate as they traverse the captivating landscapes of Mesopotamia.

Our journey commences in Basra, where the Shatt al-Arab waterway weaves through the city, providing a vibrant backdrop to daily life. We engaged in the lively atmosphere of Souq al-Shanashil, where the air is perfumed with the aroma of local spices, offering a sensory introduction to Basra's cultural richness. A serene boat ride along the water canals unveils the city's maritime heritage, creating an intimate connection between us and the soul of Basra.

Venturing northward, Nasiriyah invites exploration into the historical tapestry of Mesopotamia. The archaeological wonders of Ur and Uruk stand as testament to the civilisations that once thrived in this fertile region. We delved into the remnants of ancient Mesopotamian civilisations, tracing the footsteps of those who shaped the course of human history.

Journeying towards the spiritual heart of Iraq, Najaf and Karbala emerged with their profound significance in Shia Islam. The breathtaking architecture of the Imam Ali Shrine in Najaf and the sacred shrines of Imam Hussein and Abbas in Karbala narrated tales of faith, sacrifice, and devotion. These cities become sanctuaries where spirituality and history harmoniously converge.

Our odyssey then unfolds in Babylon, an archaeological treasure trove where the remnants of the Ishtar Gate and the Hanging Gardens stand as reminders of Mesopotamia's grandeur. Baghdad, the pulsating heart of Iraq, seamlessly blends modernity with history. A visit to the National Museum, and the iconic Al-Mutanabbi Street offers a nuanced understanding of the city's cultural heritage.

Heading north, the city of Samarra reveals its historical gem, the Malwiya Minaret, alongside the Great Mosque. Each architectural marvel serves as a gateway to Samarra's illustrious past, enriching the narrative of Iraq's Islamic heritage. Despite the recent challenges faced by Mosul, a city marred by conflict, its resilient spirit shines through. We explored the historic Old City, home to the iconic Al-Nouri Mosque and ancient marketplaces, where the stories of rebuilding and hope unfold amidst the scars of the past.

As our journey concluded in the Kurdish region, Sulaymaniyah and Erbil open doors to natural beauty and a distinct cultural identity. From the Kurdish Textile Museum to the ancient citadel, these cities encapsulate the resilient spirit of the Kurdish people.

An expedition through Iraq is not just a chronological exploration of historical sites; it is a holistic immersion into a country that defies expectations. It is an invitation to embrace the warmth of its people, relish the diversity of its cuisine, and stand witness to the enduring legacy of ancient civilisations that have left an indelible mark on the captivating landscapes of Mesopotamia – “ And me “