What was the world like 7000 years ago in different countries? What land masses had no human settlers? Questions like these were what led me to my passion for travel, to learn about other countries and peoples.

Embarking on a journey to Iraq is a step into the cradle of civilisation. When we consider Iraq, our minds may be flooded with recent historical events. Think of Mesopotamia and our minds can visualise ancient civilisations, ruined buildings, the ‘birth of civilisation, and even old Agatha Christie novels.

From Baghdad's vibrant streets to Babylon's ancient ruins, this blog unveils my journey through Mesopotamia's rich tapestry. Baghdad blends modernity with history, offering a sensory experience of markets and teahouses. In 2023 I was fortunate to have been invited to journey through Iraq with a group of fellow travel ambassadors from around the world. Join me and my group as we explore Babylon's archaeological wonders, such as the Ishtar Gate and Hanging Gardens, witnessing the grandeur of an ancient era. Iraq's diverse landscapes, from fertile plains to arid deserts, add depth to the journey. Engaging with locals fostered authentic connections, breaking stereotypes. This odyssey is more than travel; it's an immersive exploration of Iraq's resilience, heritage, and the enduring allure of its ancient roots.

Archaeologists and scholars alike have long been fascinated by the region with so many cultures, ancient cities to be discovered, and information about life long ago they uncover with their work. Temples in the valley of the Tigris in Northern Mesopotamia seem to have developed in about 5500 – 4000 BCE in the Ubaid Period. The spring floods of the mighty Euphrates irrigating the land helped food production. The Cities of Ur and Uruk, built by the Sumerians, the ruins of which I visited give a glimpse into lives long lost. The Sumerians are the first known people to use the written word.

Basra – The Southern Jewel

Embarking on our exploration, we find ourselves in Basra, a southern gem of Iraq that unfolds along the picturesque Shatt al-Arab waterway. Here, the city of Basra invites us to delve into its vibrant heart, starting with a leisurely stroll through the enchanting Souq al-Shanashil. This bustling marketplace is a sensory feast, where the air is infused with the rich scents of local spices, and where vibrant colours adorn the stalls, offering a kaleidoscope of goods that reflect the city's diverse culture.

As we meander through the market, our senses are heightened by the lively atmosphere, with the sounds of merchants calling out their wares and the hum of conversations creating a harmonious symphony. You don’t have to understand the language to understand the life and soul of the markets. The sights of intricate handicrafts, textiles, and traditional garments provide a glimpse into the craftsmanship and artistic expression embedded in Basra's cultural fabric.

To further immerse ourselves in the city's essence, we embark on a boat ride along the meandering water canals that crisscross Basra. This unique journey not only offers a tranquil escape but also unveils the maritime heritage that has been a defining aspect of the city for centuries. As we glide along the water, we witness the ebb and flow of daily life along the waterfront, providing insights into the rhythms of Basra's residents. On our first day in Iraq, we realised that we were as much of an attraction to the Iraqi people as they were to us Westerners.

The boat ride becomes a narrative of Basra's historical connection to the waterways, emphasising the importance of the Shatt al-Arab in shaping the city's identity. It's a journey through time, where the whispers of the past echo in the creaking of the boat, and the reflections on the water's surface tell tales of bygone eras.

In this way, our exploration of Basra goes beyond the tangible landmarks, inviting us to absorb the intangible spirit of the city. From the vibrant market scenes to the serene water canals, every step and glide contribute to a nuanced understanding of Basra's cultural richness and maritime legacy, making it a captivating chapter in our unfolding journey through Iraq.

Nasiriyah – A Glimpse into the Past

Embarking on a northern trajectory, we first travel to see Adams Tree (also known as the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil). On the shore of the Tigris, in the city of Qurna, surrounded by low brick walls in a sea of cement, stands a small dead tree.

After the heat of the city, we are all looking forward to the Al-Chibayish marshes boat ride. In his book ‘The Marsh Arabs” the famous traveller “ Wilfred Thesiger “, who lived with the tribes of the Marshes over several years, described the area as having “the stillness of a world that never knew an engine.” That profound line stays with me as we lounged in the long engine-driven canoes, enjoying the cooler air as we traverse the waterways, imaging days gone by.

Following a morning exploring the marshes of Al-Chibayish and learning about the people who call the marshes home, the city of Nasiriyah emerges as a captivating destination. It’s a city steeped in historical significance and characterised by the warm hospitality of its locals. This city, situated in the Dhi Qar Governorate of Iraq, invites its guests to immerse themselves in a journey through time, tracing the footsteps of ancient Mesopotamian civilisations. It’s here in Nasiriyah that the hospitality and friendliness of the Iraqi people became evident. Smiles and warm greetings followed us everywhere.

A pivotal stop in Nasiriyah is our visit to the archaeological wonders of Ur and Uruk, two archaeological sites that stand as testaments to the rich heritage of the region. The ancient city of Ur, famously associated with the biblical figure Abraham, showcases its grandeur through the remarkable Ziggurat of Ur. This monumental structure, a terraced pyramid dedicated to the moon god Nanna, serves as a striking example of ancient Mesopotamian architecture and engineering.

Equally awe-inspiring is the exploration of the legendary city of Uruk, one of the world's earliest urban centres. As we traverse the remnants of Uruk, we encounter the layers of history that unfolded in this ancient city. Uruk is renowned for its role in the development of writing, the epic of Gilgamesh, and its contributions to the emergence of complex societies.

Experiencing Ur and Uruk is a chance to marvel at the ingenuity of those who once inhabited these lands, leaving behind a legacy that continues to captivate and inspire. Great advances were made in this time, the creation of the cylinder seal used for recording commercial and legal translations. Walking through the ancient City, although I knew it wasn’t realistic, was it? I half hoped to see one lying in the sand, and I did. It was pure amazing to hold something so old. To be in the place where they were produced and used, having only seen the surviving examples in Museums brought the city to life. The Bronze Age seems linked to old artefacts, not the city surrounding me.

Moreover, Nasiriyah's welcoming locals add a layer of authenticity to the journey. Engaging with the community allows us to gain insights into the city's contemporary life while also deepening their appreciation for the preservation of its cultural and historical heritage.

In essence, Nasiriyah offers not just a visit to archaeological sites but an immersive encounter with the roots of human civilisation. It is an opportunity to connect with the past, appreciate the endurance of ancient marvels, and engage with the living legacy of Nasiriyah's cultural and historical narrative.