Embarking on a westward heading, our path leads us to the holy cities of Najaf and Karbala, each standing as profound symbols of religious significance and historical resonance. These sacred destinations beckon pilgrims and travellers to delve into the spiritual and cultural tapestry that has woven the fabric of the region for ages past.

In Najaf, our exploration centres around the breathtaking architecture of the Imam Ali Shrine, a magnificent testament to Islamic artistry and devotion. This sacred site holds deep spiritual importance for Shia Muslims, as it is believed to be the final resting place of Imam Ali, the cousin and son-in-law of Prophet Muhammad. The intricately adorned domes and minarets of the shrine stand as a visual marvel, reflecting the profound reverence held for Imam Ali. This experience was extremely moving and spiritual, even for a non-believer such as myself. One cannot but appreciate.

Moving onward, our journey takes us to the sacred city of Karbala, where the air is infused with a sense of holiness. Here, we encounter the revered shrines of Imam Hussein and Abbas. The solemnity of Imam Hussein's shrine, marking the site of his martyrdom in the Battle of Karbala, evokes contemplation and reflection. Nearby, the shrine of Abbas pays homage to the valiant half-brother of Imam Hussein. Both sites serve as powerful symbols of sacrifice, faith, and the enduring spirit of Islamic heritage.

As we navigate these sacred spaces, the intertwining of spirituality and history becomes palpable. The narratives of devotion, sacrifice, and resilience unfold within the walls of these revered structures, offering visitors a profound connection to the religious legacy that has shaped the identity of Najaf and Karbala.

The journey through Najaf and Karbala, with their amazing architecture and profound spiritual significance, becomes a pilgrimage into the heart of Shia Islam. It is an exploration of faith, a cultural odyssey, and an opportunity to witness the enduring impact of history on the sacred landscapes that continue to resonate with spiritual seekers and history enthusiasts alike.

What stood out for me though, above the grandeur of the mosques we had visited was the Wadi Al-Salam – the world’s largest cemetery. This is somewhere I had always imagined I would visit, but never actually thought I would.

It is hard to convey the size of this cemetery. As you enter the gates, to the horizon lie graves. The cemetery covers about 10 sq km. People were buried here from ancient times, and it is still in use. Many Muslim prophets and kings are buried here. The English translation of Wadi Al-Salam is " Valley of Peace ".

Travelling on to the Al-Ukhaidir Fortress, we leave our air-conditioned coach for the penetrating heat amid the ancient structure. I am fascinated to hear that the fort was excavated in the 20th Century by Gertrude Bell. The Fortress is huge, built in the 8th Century, with large rectangular walls and towers around the inner courtyards. Wandering under the impressive domed square, we look up amazed at the architecture from so long ago, especially considering Brunelleschi’s famed dome in Florence was built in in the early 15th Century. Walking under the barrelled ceiling of the great hall one can’t help but ponder what the walls would say if they could talk - it is a place for one’s imagination to soar. The fort was an important stop on the ancient trade routes and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is one of the best-preserved palaces in the Muslim world.

Embarking from Karbala, our group finds itself at the gates of Babylon, an archaeological marvel that unfolds as a treasure trove of historical wonders. Strolling through the remnants of this ancient city, our group is transported back in time, where the echoes of Babylon's grandeur resonate through the ruins of the Ishtar Gate and the legendary Hanging Gardens.

We visit The Ishtar Gate, (the original controversially now in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin) adorned with vibrant blue glazed brick depicting mythical creatures, stands as an iconic entrance to the ancient city, constructed by King Nebuchadnezzar. As we meander through the archaeological remnants of this monumental gate, we are enveloped in the majestic aura of a civilisation that once flourished in the heart of Mesopotamia. The intricate details and artistic symbolism of the Ishtar Gate provide a glimpse into the advanced craftsmanship and cultural richness of Babylon.

Equally enchanting is the exploration of the fabled Hanging Gardens, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Though the gardens themselves remain shrouded in historical mystery, the mere presence of their remnants evokes a sense of awe. Amidst the sprawling ruins, one can envision the terraced splendour that once adorned this ancient city, showcasing the ingenuity of Babylonian engineering.

To enrich and fulfill the journey, engaging with local guides is paramount. These knowledgeable companions serve as living conduits to the past, breathing life into the stones and artifacts scattered across Babylon's landscape. Their narratives unveil the stories of mighty kings, intricate societal structures, and the daily life of Babylonians, transforming a simple walk-through ruin into an immersive exploration of history.

The local guides not only share historical facts but also offer cultural insights, providing a deeper understanding of the significance of Babylon in the annals of human civilisation. Their passion for preserving and conveying the legacy of Babylon adds an extra layer of authenticity to the experience, fostering a connection between visitors and the ancient roots of this remarkable city. Rarely have I seen guides with such a sense of passion and pride as I have here in Babylon.

Perhaps the most famous person to die in Babylon was Alexander the Great. Returning with his armies from victories in India, it is likely he caught either malaria or typhoid in the Marshes. Many other rumours have been suggested including poisoning. He died in the palace of Nebuchadnezzar. His tomb has been lost to time with many archaeologists still hunting for it.

The below photo is said to be of the place where Alexander Died.

A visit to Babylon transcends mere sightseeing; it becomes a journey into the heart of a bygone era. The Ishtar Gate and the remnants of the Hanging Gardens stand as witnesses to the cultural and architectural prowess of Babylon, while the guidance of local experts ensures that every step through this archaeological treasure trove is a step closer to unravelling the mysteries of Mesopotamia. We all left Babylon trying to get our heads around the sheer vastness of history withheld within its walls.

As the epicentre of Iraq, the vibrant city of Baghdad pulsates with a dynamic blend of modernity seamlessly interwoven with its rich historical tapestry. A visit to this cultural hub unfolds a captivating narrative, inviting one to explore key landmarks that encapsulate the essence of Baghdad's spirit. It was here that all my stereotypical images and ideas I had about Iraq were shattered. Baghdad is a modern and vibrant city. It is open and not restricted and confined as the media would have us believe. Men, women, children all going about their business with zero impressions that we as westerners have been led to believe. It dawned on me, I was travelling through one of the most amazing, safe, and friendly destinations I have ever travelled to.

And so, begins our exploration of Baghdad. Starting at the National Museum, a repository of Iraq's extensive cultural heritage. Here, artifacts spanning millennia tell the story of Mesopotamia, showcasing the region's contributions to art, science, and civilisation. The Baghdad Museum is simply mind-blowing. Here one can engage with the intricacies of ancient artifacts, each echoing the legacy of civilisations that once thrived along the Tigris and Euphrates. The museum contains some of the most important archaeologic riches of Mesopotamia, although much was lost in the Iraqi wars. The staff were incredibly helpful and so proud and happy to be sharing their history with visitors from abroad. It was humbling to be amongst people with such pride in their country and history.

A stroll along the banks of the Tigris River reveals the heart of the city, offering a picturesque view of the Baghdad skyline. The cityscape unfolds, adorned with a juxtaposition of modern structures and historical landmarks, showcasing Baghdad's resilience in the face of change.

Immersing ourselves in the literary and cultural ambiance of Al-Mutanabbi Street, a bustling centre of books, poetry, and intellectual exchange was another highlight for me. This iconic street, named after the renowned Abbasid-era poet, fosters an atmosphere where past and present literary traditions converge, reflecting the enduring spirit of Baghdad's intellectual heritage. As an avid book lover, wherever I travel I seek out old bookstores and markets. I was not disappointed, Mutanabbi Street was alive, the atmosphere; it was like walking through a time warp. I closed my eyes and imagined being there a hundred years prior, how it must have been.

Finding some free time, a few of us from the group came upon the Al-Shabander café, a traditional Iraqi teahouse. I want to spend the remainder of the day here, soaking up the atmosphere, enjoying my shisha, and chatting with the locals, but alas, 30 minutes is all we have.

Baghdad is more than just a city; it is a living canvas that paints a narrative of cultural richness, intellectual fervour, and the unwavering spirit of a people. As you navigate through the National Museum, Al-Mustansiriya University, Al-Mutanabbi Street, and along the Tigris River, each step is a testament to the city's ability to seamlessly blend its historical legacy with the vibrancy of contemporary life, creating an experience that resonates with the heartbeat of Baghdad.