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Togo’s leg of the expedition focuses on Lome, a borderland capital shaped by German, British, and French rule. Highlights include the central market dominated by Nana Benz textile traders, Africa’s largest fetish market for Vodun rituals, and colonial-era architecture reflecting the city’s cosmopolitan trade history.
Togo is one of West Africa’s smallest nations, yet its capital Lome has long been a crossroads of influence. Governed successively by Germans, British, and French, Lome developed into a cosmopolitan city of trade, style, and culture. Today it remains a hub where markets, architecture, and ritual practices converge.
FAQ: Why is Lome unique among African capitals?
Lome is the only African capital located directly on a national border. Its port and strategic position helped it develop as a centre of commerce and cross-cultural exchange.
Situated at the frontier with Ghana, Lome is unusual for being a border capital. Over the 19th and 20th centuries it was administered by German, British, and French colonial powers. This legacy is still visible in its architecture, public institutions, and trade structures.
FAQ: How did colonial powers shape Lome?
German rule (1884–1914) introduced administrative buildings; British and French oversight after WWI expanded the port and market economy, cementing Lome as a hub for West African commerce.
At Lome’s central market, the “Nana Benz” dominate. These women traders control the distribution of pagne, vibrant printed textiles sold across West Africa. Their name comes from their association with luxury Mercedes-Benz cars, purchased with wealth from textile trading in the mid-20th century.
FAQ: Why are the “Nana Benz” significant?
The “Nana Benz” symbolise women’s economic power in Togo. They established Lome as a textile trading hub and continue to shape regional commerce.
Lome is home to the largest fetish market in Africa, where traders sell materials used in Voodoo and other traditional practices. Skulls, herbs, animal parts, and crafted objects are available for use in healing, divination, or protective rituals.
FAQ: Is the fetish market open to visitors?
Yes. Visitors can tour the market, where guides explain the uses of ritual objects and the role of Vodun in local spiritual practice.
Beyond its markets, Lome is a centre for tribal art, artisanal crafts, and a distinctive urban culture influenced by Afro-Brazilian traders and diverse migrant communities. Its cuisine, music, and nightlife reflect a blend of local and international traditions.
FAQ: What cultural influences shape Lomé today?
German, British, and French colonial legacies intersect with Afro-Brazilian trade traditions and pan-African migration, making Lomé’s architecture, food, and social life distinctly cosmopolitan.
|
Category |
Details |
|
Days Covered |
53 |
|
Regions |
Lome |
|
Major Stops |
Central Market, Nana Benz textile traders, Fetish Market, colonial architecture |
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Key Themes |
Cross-border trade, women’s economic power, Vodun practices, cosmopolitan culture |
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Recommended Gear |
Light clothing, modest attire for markets, camera for architecture |
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Best Time to Visit |
November–March (dry season) |
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Location |
Accommodation |
Notes |
|
Lome |
Hotel Onomo |
International standard, air-conditioned rooms |
This was only Day 53.
Forward Travel’s 56-day West Africa Grand Expedition covers:
If you're curious to follow the full journey or want to join a future departure, get in touch.













